SHELL’S 'DIY' POND BUILD…FINALLY IT’S DONE!

SHELL’S 'DIY' POND BUILD…FINALLY IT’S DONE!

Shelly has now finished her long awaited pond and has incorporated an Anoxic Filter into her pond build. Early next spring as soon as the weather permits the AFS will already be waiting for the pond startup. Unlike conventional filters, the Anoxic filter is ready and waiting to take on another year of chemical and biological filtration needs. No need to inoculate with bacteria cultures or chemicals of any kind.

 For those that have conventional filtration systems this early springtime is a stressful time of year for their Koi. The bacteria now need to wait for temperatures to clime to acceptable levels of at least a steady 55F° (12C°) before they are any good at processing the Nitrogen Cycle once again. However, the AFS is ready to go (Ed: This can be seen in testing the Biocenosis baskets and still finding oxygen in the medium. If the bacteria were dead or inactive them anaerobic bacteria would take its place and Hydrogen Sulfide would be its byproduct along with more Ammonia.) and the bacterium is now waiting for Ammonia and other ions at temperatures of 35F° (1.6C°) not the usual 20-30C° (68F- 86F°) that the Nitrosomonas chemoautotrophic bacteria does and remember this is the optimum temperature for this bacteria to carry out its transformation of biological processes and is less effective at colder temps.

Unfortunately Koi are already foraging for food at temps of about 48F° (8.8C°). They now need bacteria to get back into their systems and fast. If the hobbyists waits too long then their animals’ become weaken from lack of natural foods or processes foods and become susceptible to all kind of primary and secondary infections or undue stress that may lead to complications further down the road.

If you wish to read more of Shelly’s pond build click the links below.

http://anoxicfiltrationsystem.blogspot.com/2013/11/shellys-pond-build-from-oregonthe_21.html

http://anoxicfiltrationsystem.blogspot.com/2013/11/shellys-pond-build-from-oregonthe.html

http://anoxicfiltrationsystem.blogspot.com/2013/10/houston-we-have-had-problem-by-shelly.html

http://anoxicfiltrationsystem.blogspot.com/2013/09/shellys-pond-build-from-beautiful.html

http://anoxicfiltrationsystem.blogspot.com/2013/09/hello-from-out-west-and-we-do-have-some.html

A natural foodsource for a natural system, information from Ardy’s pond and his AFS in Indonesia.

Ardy from Indonesia sent me some info on his pond and news of his AFS with photos. However, one thing that caught my attention was the photo of the bloodworms he has growing on his biocenosis baskets in his Anoxic filter. For a Limnologist the bloodworms tell many stories of how good or even how bad water quality can be in a given system. He has a small 1.2-ton pond (1 ton = 264 US gals of water or 220 Imperial gallons of water) with 18 Koi averaging 30-40 cm long in size.  All his parameters look good with a NO3 of ˂ 0-10ppm. pH is 7.2 and GH and KH are in the normal range. Feeding is being implemented 3 times a day @ 250-mls with a fasting every seventh day and a 20% water change is done every week or fortnight.

Now getting back to the bloodworms that are in his filter that can be an excellent indicator of water quality. Some species of bloodworm can indicate poor water quality because they can live in chemically rich and oxygen poor conditions. They, like Algae, will be a good indication of the condition of the system if one dominates all other species in that system. If water quality is in par with the EPA standards and has lots of oxygen then many different types of algae’s will prevail and many different types of aquatic insects species with the lesser being in the worst conditions. Bloodworms AKA: insect larva called Midge, feed on microorganisms and organic material and in Ardy’s case it is not an indication or a sign of troubles in his pond that most associate with bloodworms. Some species, like Hellgrammite and some dragonfly types are examples of Midge’s that will only live in exceptionally clean water and require waters to be at saturation point in oxygen.

Here is what we know: The AFS does not place a burden on the oxygen demands of the eco-system because testing has shown that the oxygen in the AFS is the same as that of the main pond. So we now know that oxygen must be being made or taken into the Biocenosis baskets by other means than the water body itself or the bacteria are using it from other resources too. With that said we know that Ardy’s water flowing over and around the biocenosis basket has to be the same oxygen level as his main pond and if that is the case then only the oxygen rich loving species of aquatic insects will be present.

The icing on the cake is that Ardy is using the same filter as Yogas is, and Yogas’s redox is at 400-420 mV readings, which is a good sign of excellent water quality. If Yogas’s water quality doesn’t make the most jaded hobbyist jealous then nothing will! Oh, Yes! Back to Ardy’s bloodworms [Ed: Bloodworm is an ambiguous term and can be use for many definitions of similar larva, worms and species of parasites so being green in color means they are lacking hemoglobin. This then means it is not 100% confirmed that they are not Blackworms or as we call them in the US Green Glass worms they sell in pet shops.] and the proliferation of them are a good indication that his AFS is working. Bloodworms are sold in the US as a food for tropical fish in pet stores. Don’t confuse bloodworms with Tubifex worms also called sludge worms, or sewage worms, and are a species of tubificid segmented worms sold in pet stores too. Bloodworms are cleaner and since Ardy knows their food source he can now use them as a nourishing staple for his Koi. In Asia they have been proven to add weight on fish and growth rate is more uniform when added to the diet. Chemical analysis shows that bloodworms contain about 9% dry matter and of that, about 65% is crude protein, 10% is crude fat and about 10% is ash and is a good source of iron. I have grown Blackworms in my AFS for years now and the Goldfish fry and fingerlings love them.

 Quote from Ardy's letter: “I am happy with the result of my water quality using the AFS, judging from my pond and filter construction which is far from standard recommendations and with feeding regime and minimal water changes. Hopefully it will be better after the rest of 16BB matured (30 days to go).”

Open container of a tropical water Lillie with 1BB potted. The leaves are growing like crazy but no flowers as of yet (it should be blue). 

 Fully outdoor pond, algae been reduced to under 1cm long but still cover all the wall.  

Closed container fed directly from Mech Filter, the green layer on top of BB's are bloodworms colonies. Living in Indonesia and with the insect fauna that they must have, this doesn’t surprise me one bit.

 

Yogas update 12-12-13 from Indonesia. Good news on the waterfront.

It cost less to make a cement pond in Indonesia than it does to make a liner pond here in the US of the same size.

Hi Dr. Novak,

How are you? Hope everything is going well. I've been observing the ORP and it seems my pond has an ORP of around 350-400 lately. It had once dropped to 300, but that was only when I did a thorough cleaning of the entire mechanical filter chambers (brushes and japmats). As a matter of fact, right now the ORP meter is reading between 410-420. This worries me since I have read somewhere that an ORP of 400 or more only happens when certain oxidation chemicals are added and if left that way it will kill bacteria’s in the pond. Is this correct? Is it possible to have an ORP reading of 400++ without administration of any kind of chemical? Is an ORP of 400++ harmful to bacteria? What ORP value would you advise me to maintain, and what must be done to achieve that? Btw, it has been raining heavily also for several weeks now. I've read your post on ORP, but couldn't quite understand it. I recall about positive and negative ORP and if not mistaken a negative ORP would be preferable. But I'm not quite sure I understood correctly.

Thank you Dr.Novak, hope to hear from you.

Best regards,

Yogas

Yogas,

Don’t even worry about a redox of 410-420mV; bacteria are very residual and it will take a considerably higher redox than what you are experiencing to kill them. Remember Tridacna Clams can take a redox of 700mV and have a symbiotic algae living in their mantles that continues photosynthesis at those high mV readings. In fact most saltwater hobbyist keep their aquariums at a 375-475 mV reading all the time with no harm to their animals or invertebrates and that includes the bacteria.

Okay, hears what you have… VERY CLEAN POND WATER NOW UNLIKE BEFORE with your old filtration system!  You must get use to the AFS, and all those that act like they know everything about ponds and filters…well they really don’t! To get a redox of plus 400 mV you must have an ECO friendly filtration system that utilizes bacteria, and that bacteria then does not add more wastes in the form of ions than what is naturally incoming into the system by outside insults. In other words the AFS has more ion takers than producers. Conventional filters always add something to the ECO-system that really doesn’t belong in that system. So the only way to get rid of it, is through water changes. You are now using an ion filter unlike those that don’t use an AFS they must through water changes and lots of them at that to achieve what your doing with so little outlay. Just enjoy the fruits of your labor and your Koi! Keep up with what you are doing and be proud of your achievements. You trusted me and made the right decision by getting rid of what you were told was good for something better.

The chief enemy of good is better! I know this is very confusing to you because it does go across the grain of what everyone has brainwashed you into believing all these years about that: Only very expensive equipment is the only way to have über clean and good pond water for our Koi’s. It is one way, but unfortunately not the only way!

Happy ponding,

Kevin

I get E-mails ... And believe it or not there are some very nice people out there.

Hi Kevin.

Just for more encouragement (that is if you haven’t had enough already. Hehehe!) that lots of people are actually trying AFS, much more that those posting things on forum asking questions may it be constructive or not.

For example in our Indonesian forum there are only 5-6 people are actively posting things, but when I started to share my hundred of kilos of Laterite there was a enormous demand. Many from those i have never saw active on the forum. 

During my Laterite sharing exercise, I learnt that there are at least 3 people in Indonesia that have been using AFS successfully since 3yrs ago.

The majority of people, who want to try your system or those who had positive results upon application are usually silent, compared to those who try to belittle other. I would just ignore them completely.

All the best

Dipa

Sent from Samsung Mobile


(Ed: I also wanted to say it's letters like this of encouragement is why I do it for free and keep at it constantly. Thanks Dipa)

All I can say Showa86 is that some of the best Koi Growth rates that I have seen of are always in ponds with the most expensive filtration systems, people who feed quite often everyday and/or people who use large anoxic filtration systems.

All I can say Showa86, is that some of he best Koi growth rates that I have seen of, are always in ponds with the most expensive filtration systems, people who feed quite often everyday and/or people who use large Anoxic Filtration Systems.

Of course this does not mean that I've not seen very good growth rate in very large 1 acre ponds that are carefully stocked with Koi and have excellent growth rates because of added feeding besides whats in the pond already. However, for people with backyard ponds this  means investing thousands of dollars into their expensive  equipment and then feeding some very expensive Koi foods. Whether it's the anoxic filtration itself, or the combination of clays that are used in the filtration system itself, this seems to trigger a better growth rate than most people experience with using some of the more high-tech equipment.This means the bigger the pond the more outlay for that equipment.

This year one of the top five Midwest Pond and Koi Society members "growers and showers" will have their pond open for the first time on pond tour. My avatar shows a picture of their pond, they just happen to be from the UK and they just happened to also used the anoxic filtration system exclusively.

I'm not saying that the anoxic filtration system is magic, that would be nonsense but what I am saying is there must be a reason and/or correlation because of this system, that growth rates are tied in with the system and people are saving thousands upon thousands of dollars in filtration systems.

We do not fully understand why some filtration systems and different foods react differently with Koi growth rates, but that seems to be the case. Is it a combination of the two... I would have to say no, it's either one is very good or the other is very good but it never seems to be that people hit on both of them exactly and will come up with a growth rates for Koi that are a good end result that everyone could agree upon that is the right answer. I've seen people use expensive foods and have poor growth rates or expensive filtration systems and still have poor growth rates.

I only say this because people still never get as good of growth rates as they do in grow-out pounds. Grow-out ponds usually have no filtration systems at all, what they have is An unlimited food source and mass of water, compared to our backyard ponds.

Aeromonas Bacteria

Aeromonas Bacteria

Aeromonas is a genus of bacteria that includes many species capable of causing disease in Koi. Aeromonas salmonicida and Aeromonas hydrophila are the best known members of the genus but it is the latter of these two organisms that is of most concern to the Koi-keeper. The scientific community has mixed views as to the capacity of Aeromonas hydrophila to cause disease. Some regard it as an opportunistic pathogen causing only secondary disease in Koi that are already in a susceptible condition. Others claim that it is capable of causing primary infection in its own right.

The hobbyist needs proper guidance to deal with Aeromonas infections effectively as without management outbreaks commonly reoccur. However, it is far more important to learn how prevent them becoming a reality in the first place. Understanding the many situations in which an outbreak of Aeromonas infection is most likely to occur demonstrates that Koi require stability and, when this is denied them, disease often results with Aeromonas a very common enemy.

Causative factors in bacterial disease

Recent importation is a major cause of Aeromonas infection

Netting, bagging, transportation, rough handling

The stress of a new environment

Intermittent levels of ammonia or nitrite that goes untested by the hobbyist

Prolonged periods of poor water quality when a new filter fails to mature

Overcrowding increases the risks of disease transmission

Fluctuations in pH. and other water chemistry problems

A lack of pond hygiene - No bottom drain fitted or the pond not hoovered

A filter system in which fish waste and other decaying matter builds up

Parasitic infestation that debilitate the Koi

Exposure to harmful pond construction materials, heavy metals or toxins

Temperature fluctuations or the inappropriate use of heat

Adverse spring conditions water temperature fluctuations

The use of too many chemicals in the pond can leave Koi susceptible

Underlying undiagnosed health problem can predispose Koi to Aeromonas

Failure to quarantine new Koi creates a further risk from Aeromonas

An inappropriate diet leads can predispose fish to disease

Injuries to the body from sharp objects in the pond become infected

Low dissolved oxygen levels in the pond allow disease to flourish

Control measures

Avoiding every one of these trigger factors is impossible. Koi have to be moved or no one could become a Koi-keeper. However, it is possible to look in more detail at each potential risk area and attempt to minimise instability for Koi as each situation arises. It is important to remember that Aeromonas is always present as part of the normal bacterial life of the pond and is found on the fish themselves and once disease develops it is found internally. Koi can never escape from it and it is the Koi-keeper who keeps this organism at bay by good pond maintenance.

The influence of heat

Aeromonas can cause disease in a pond at a water temperature as low as 40F / 5C but the outbreak is usually less virulent. The higher the temperature the faster the bacterium multiplies and more signs of disease such as ulceration or reddening of the body will be observed. Losses due to septicaemia can be anticipated if the water is over 65F / 17C. This bacterium can multiply at an amazing rate if the temperature and conditions are conducive. In just one day one Aeromonas organism could generate well over 20 million more and 30 million is possible in really ideal circumstances. Each new bacterium will possess genetic material that enables it to resist the chemicals former generations of the species were exposed to in the fight to eradicate them. It is a fact Aeromonas know about survival.

Signs of infection

The disease normally presents in the form of ulcers or open sores on the body, although reddening is also a sign of infection. The skin lesions are created by enzymes, which in this case are the metabolites or waste products of the Aeromonas bacterium. Once disease has become systemic and is affecting Koi internally usually only antibiotics are effective or the fish will not survive. However, if the disease is caught in time before what is termed bacteraemia has developed it is possible to control an outbreak with bactericides and topical treatment.

Fluid balance

An open ulcer results in vital fluids containing electrolytes being lost from the body, the use of salt at 1/2 an ounce per gallon can help prevent this. Whilst the treatment of ulcers with topical medications will not cure a serious systemic disease it will help to prevent the further invasion of the body by other harmful organisms such as fungus and can encourage healing.

Common problem

Aeromonas hydrophila is by far the most common subspecies causing disease in Koi and is frequently isolated in bacterial cultures along with Aeromonas sobria. Some species work as a team cleaning up after one another we can trust nature never to waste a nutritional resource. From the laboratory perspective Aeromonas hydrophila is a gram negative - oxidase positive rod with a singular polar flagellum. This means that the outer wall of this bacterium unlike some others will retain a specialist stain known as Gram's stain which colours it blue. 

A further aid to identification is the confirmed presence of the enzyme oxidase. The term rod refers to the shape of the organism and the flagellum is a tail like protuberance at one end, which gives the bacterium its motility.

Pond hygiene

Aeromonas species whilst normally aerobic have the capacity to live in both aerobic and anaerobic conditions; we call organisms that can adapt in this way faculative. This means that the bacterium can hide in poorly oxygenated ponds or filtration systems harbouring decaying matter which can become a source of disease emerging at a later date when disturbed. Regular cleaning of the mechanical filtration chambers is obvious because their purpose is to trap debris but systems with voids beneath the media also need routine maintenance.

Safe and easy cleaning

Provision for flushing to waste after all cleaning procedures should be a standard part of all filter systems; a non-return valve incorporated into the filter plumbing prevents contaminated water returning to the pond. Cleaning should never disturb the biological part of the filter. There are biological pond cleaners on the market that use micro-organisms to naturally lower the level of dissolved solids and other unwanted substances in pond water. These can reduce the workload for the Koi-keeper when it comes to pond hygiene whilst at the same time lowering the risks of all disease including Aeromonas.

The battle

Koi do not develop antibodies against Aeromonas species so the battle can become a long term one. An infection of bacterial disease may be cured with antibiotics and bactericides and then a new outbreak occurs the following year, usually in spring. Koi will not stand up to prolonged use of antibiotics as the kidneys, liver and brain tissues can be damaged by their side effects. Resistance to antibiotics plagues all branches of medicine and is now greatly affecting the Koi industry and antibiotics should only be used under professional guidance. Koi culture is in a serious situation due to continued reliance on curing disease rather than preventing it. Aeromonas is not the only potential bacterium lurking in pond water, but it certainly is the most common.

The ideal pond

It is possible to have a pond free of the risks posed by Aeromonas without resorting to any artificial aids. Such a pond will have a fully biological filter system with an excessive capacity to support the numbers of fish stocked, any borderline system is inadequate. The pond must have sufficient water volume to allow each fish room to thrive 50 inches of Koi to 1,000 gallons is an old statistic in Koi-keeping that still stands the test of time. This same pond will only be stocked from a quarantine facility never by direct introduction and it will be hygienically maintained on a very regular basis either through its drainage and filter system or by vacuuming. The Koi will be well fed on a good quality food including some fresh foods when water temperatures permit but no uneaten pellets will ever pollute this pond. Chemicals will not be used routinely but only if a diagnosed problem develops. Test kits will be in regular use to minimise all triggers factors and testing will include dissolved oxygen levels because the wise Koi-keeper knows the vital role it plays in the well being of Koi.

Prevention beats cure

It is vital to realise that prevention is safer and more successful than cure when it comes to all bacterial disease in Koi and this particularly applies to Aeromonas infections. Having to resort to the use of any chemical, especially antibiotics, can only be seen as a failure to maintain the pond adequately enough to keep bacterial levels at a minimum however when such drugs have to be used continuously to control disease the long term welfare of Koi is seriously threatened.